Construction of shirts for men



Feb. 14, 1950 E. M. ROSEEN CONSTRUCTION OF SHIRTS FOR MEN Filed Aug. 9, 1946 35 ,3 as INVENTOR. 4 in /EL N 51 555 Patented Feb. 14, 1950 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CONSTRUCTION .OF SHIRTS FOR MEN Ethel MLRoseen, Minneapolis, Minn.

Application'August '9, 1946, Serial No. 689,447

3 Claims. (Cl. 2-115 1- Myinventlon relates to.- construction of "shirtsfor men and has for its object to. eliminate the yoke customarily employedat the top .of' the shirt'and-provide'a constructionrwhich gives a smooth appearance of the-shirt across the back under the collar.

Shirts as I constructed at the present time em-- body a top yoketo which the collarisattach'ed and also thebody ottheshirt. The'use'of theyoke, has beenwith the. intentionxand idea of so fitting the shirt along-the back between the shoulders and'runningunder the collar that it will liesmooth and fiat. Actually,-with the vast majorityofindividuals, where the shirt is-noti made to order, thisdoes. not take place; but there is. abunchingofthe shirtat the collar. This bunching is objectionable, since it .givesthe effect of a poor fit to the shirt when the wearer is" going without a coat and it .will show through the coatwherea light coat is. employed, giving the effect ofpoor fit atithecollar of the wearers coat.

Even with made-'to-order tailored shirts difll-' culty has been' experienced in bunching and obviously relatively few men are in a position to pay the much higherprice of' tailored shirts.

I have discovered" a very simpleman'ner-of completely avoiding thisunsatisfactory and unsightly bunching efiect; whichis applicable to all sizes 'of men.

This new construction comesfrom" entirely eliminating the top yoke and effecting fitting across the back betweentheupper slopes of the shoulders by employing toward the upper extensions ofeach' of said slopessra: double, slightly tapered fold running downwardly from their up= per ends along; lines where the folded parts substantially meet" and stitched down vertically therefrom for a short distance and thereafter running-freely forcomplete opening before-the Wa-istlineis reached;

This arrangement leavesaband "of the mate'- rial between the twovertical'sets" of stitching which extends directlydown" from the; union thereafter free. and: expansible toward the belt line of the garment.

The full objects and advantages ofmy invention will. appearin connection with the .specificae tionihereinafter given, and its .novel featureswby which the aforementioned highlyiuseiul' and: ad-. vantageous. results are "obtained will be F particu larly'pointedv out in the claims.

Insth'e drawings. illustrating aniapplication of 1o myinvention invoneof its forms:

Fig. l is a backv1e'w: ofashirt as .thesame'is worn showing the manner in. which the double pleats'areprovided-"and the straightsmooth appearance of the shirt back to: and under the lsacollarl Fi'gpz'is a side elevationmewof my improved.

shirt asshownxin-Fig; 1.

Fig. 3t'is a. Similart'vside elevationview'of ant-old. style shirt showing the manner in Whichthe shirt 20; bunches below the collar.

Fig; his a fragmentary View on'ian enlarged;

scaleofone of. the double 'pleatsadjacent'lthe shoulder union between the back and one tor the:

front; pieces 'of the shirt:

5;. Fig. Eris-ancenlarged sectional.view 'taken on Fig; 6 is an. enlargedrsectional. View taken on" line 6--6' of Fig. 4;

'7 is'an enlarged sectional view taken on 3gsgillnel 'lbf Fig. As illustrated, the front panels, similar to panel 1 ofnormal construction, united," as indicated at H in Figs. 2 and 4, With the shoulder extension ofxth'eback, indicated at I3 in Fig. 4, and at l3 Running fromtheseamsfll toward the upperpart of theshoulder slopes are double-pleats I5 and US, in the form 'of inverted box pleats, 'asmshown in Figs; 1 and 4. These double pleats are sewed to a pointindi'cated at ll in'Fig. l, and

haveth'eir'foldededges! and I9 substantially: incontact and are held by stitching 20 and 2 t extending verticallythrough'the fabric of shoul 45;;vderextension l3 and "are held in three layers,

23 and-"Met that side of the folds l8 and [9.

The under layers of fabric 23, 23 and 24 extend into the folds 25 and 2E, and, as in Fig. 5,

the three layers 22, 23 and 24 lie fiat on one side .50 of the fold l8, and layers 24, 23' and 22 lie flat on the other side of fold 21.

The shoulder extensions l3 and 14 are taken from what amounts to a central back panel 21 which extends between the vertical meeting edges [5 and [6 of the two folds l8 and I9, as clearly 3 shown in exaggerated form in Fig. 5. The rows of stitches and 2| extend in parallel relation to the point I! where the stitching ends.

As shown in Fig. 6, the rows of stitches 20 and 2| are here discontinued, and the folds l8 and 19 are separated by a slight gap 28. The layers of cloth 22, 23 and 24, at the point of section 6-6, are thus free to begin to spread from the unsewed fold portions l8 and 19.

As shown in Fig. 7, this spreading has substantially increased, the edges l8 and I9 now being separated by a substantial gap 29. And, referring to Fig. 1, it will be apparent that the spreading of the folds l8 and I9 continues to-points and 3| where the spreading merges into the normal shirt fullness at 32 just above the customary belt 33. p

Figs. 1 and 2 show the manner in which the back panel 21 hangs straight from the collar,

leaving a perfectly smooth transverse stretch of material extending from under the bottom edge 34 of the collar 35.

Fig. 3 shows the objectionable bunch fold 36 at the back of shirts and below the collar caused by the customary yoke construction 31. A great deal of experimentation has been carried out by shirtmanufacturers in an effort to overcome this objectionable difficulty, but the yoke has continued to be employed with different characteristics and widths, and always, for a considerable number of wearers, the bunching occurs.

I have found that when the rear panel of the shirt is directly connected to the front panels at the crests of the shoulders of a wearer, and the upper extremity of the rear panel is made to fit snugly above the shoulder blades by means of the pleats, the excess lateral fullness of the rear panel is transferred from the area above the shoulder blades where it causes the formation of the horizontally extended longitudinal fold in conventional shirt panels, as shown at 36 in Fig. 3, to the area between the shoulder blades and extending to the lower extremity of the rear panel to provide a fullness between the tips of the shoulder blades and extending below the waistline. This construction provides a neat appearance immediately below the collar and also avoids any binding effect between the shoulder blades and extending below the waistline, which would result if the pleats extended in a secured manner below the shoulder blades.

.The advantages of my invention have been substantially pointed out in the preceding specification. The fundamental and primary advantage comes from the fact that with practically every type of figure the construction of my invention does eliminate bunching at the top of the back and below the collar. In other words standard ready-made shirts employing my invention, which have the proper size neck band and shoulder width, will have the back panel 21 thereof hang smooth, unbunched and unwrinkled from the bottom of the collar down the back to the shirt fullness at the waist line.

A further substantial advantage comes from the fact that a shirt employing my invention may be manufactured more cheaply than the customary yoke shirts, and for that reason will cheapen the cost of the shirt to the ultimate consumer.

Another marked advantage of my invention resides in the freedom and looseness of the material about the waist of a shirt employing my invention.

I claim:

1. A mans shirt construction, comprising front panels, a collar, a unitary back panel joined to the front panels at the crest of the shoulders of a wearer, and a pair of pleats extending substantially vertically in parallel relation to each other from adjacent the outer limits of the collar and the upper slopes of the shoulders, said pleats commencing at the point of junction of the back panel with thefront panels and terminating at the areas covering the tips of the shoulder blades to transfer excess fullness in the back panel from the area above the shoulder blades to the area below the shoulder blades and extending to the lower extremity of th'eback panel.

2. A mans shirt construction, comprising front panels, a "collar, a unitary back panel joined .to the front panels at the crest of the shoulders of a wearer, a pair of inverted box pleats extending substantially vertically in parallel relation to each other from'adjacent the outer limits of the collar and the upper slopes of the shoulders, and

a row of stitches securing the opposite sides of the box pleats and commencing at the point of junction of the back panel with the front panels and terminating at the areas covering the tips of the shoulder blades of the wearer to transfer excess fullness in the back panel from the area above the shoulder blades to the area below the shoulder blades and extending to the lower extremity of the back panel.

3; A mans shirt construction, comprising front panels, a collar, a unitary back panel secured to the front panels at the crests of the shoulders of a wearer, and a pair of inverted box pleats formed intheback panel to transfer excess fullness of the material forming the back panel from the area immediately beneath the collar to the area between the shoulder blades and extending below the waistline, said pleats being formed in only one end'of the back panel commencing at the junction of the-back panel with the front panels and terminating adjacent the shoulder blades of a wearer.

. ETHEL M. ROSEEN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date D. 123,320 Turcotte July 15, 1941 1,245,649 Wickes Nov. 6, 1917 1,948,177 Karasic Feb. 20, 1934 2,106,412 Oviatt Jan. 25, 1938 2,300,460 Novick Nov. 3, 1942 2,341,798 Lesser Feb. 15, 1944 

